To stuff or not to stuff? I am firmly on the stuffer side of the debate. When the dressing is inside of the bird, it is basted with flavorful meat juices. The extra dressing baked on the side is never as tasty. The key to a good dressing is lots of seasonings: cook the aromatics first in fat until meltingly tender and add lots of salt, pepper, and fresh sage.

Here is a variation on the theme; add spinach to the dressing for flavor and color.

Spinach-Goat Cheese Dressing

• 1/4 pound bacon, diced
• 1 onion, diced
• 2 ribs of celery, diced
• 2 garlic cloves, minced
• 1 loaf of bread, cubed
• 2 pounds spinach, washed
• 1/4 cup pine nuts, toasted
• 4 ounces goat cheese
• 1/2 cup parmesan
• 2 eggs
• salt and pepper to taste
• sage to taste

Saute the bacon until browned. Add the onion and celery and saute until clear, about 15-20 minutes. Add the garlic. Spread the bread on a sheet pan and lightly toast, about 5 minutes at 350 degrees. In a pot of boiling water, quickly blanch the spinach and immediately chill by placing in a bowl of ice. Use a ricer to squeeze out all of the excess water.

Combine the onion-bacon mixture with the bread, spinach, nuts, cheeses, eggs, and season very well with salt and pepper. If needed, moisten the dressing with chicken stock. Stuff the turkey or bake in a gratin dish at 350 degrees for 45 minutes.