“I saw the week-long cooking class for $1,000 that you offer and said to myself, that’s crazy! But I am interested in going cooking school, so I checked into some of them and realized that they cost $2,000 per week. Now your class seems like a bargain!” said Carol, who did attend our five-day Mastering the Art of Cooking class last week.
We just finished a week of cooking – 30 hours and 60 recipes. This intense cooking class is a mini-cooking school. Yesterday’s New York Times had a front-page article on the high-cost and low-returns of professional cooking school. No need to spend $41,000; join us for a compressed kitchen education!
Our next session of Mastering the Art of Cooking will run from September 27 to October 1, 10 am to 4 pm for five consecutive days. The class gets to choose the recipes they would like to make!
Highlights from last week’s class included cheese souffle, apple tarte Tatin, osso buco on creamy polenta, lobster-goat cheese ravioli in tarragon beurre blanc, chicken enchiladas with homemade tortillas, chiles rellenos, chicken-andouille gumbo, devil’s food cake with chocolate buttercream, oyster mushroom tempura, and pork potstickers with homemade wrappers.
Sometimes, a simple and classic recipe is the most memorable. The class went nuts for meat loaf! The secret to great meat loaf are:
Meat Loaf
3 slices of bread
1/3 cup milk
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tablespoon porcini powder
1 pound chuck roast
1 pound veal shoulder
1 pound pork shoulder
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
2 tablespoons horseradish
½ tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon salt
½ tablespoon pepper
Soak the bread in milk, then squeeze out any excess liquid. Set aside. Saute the onions in oil until tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic. Add the porcini powder. Let cool. Cut the meats into cubes. Grind the meats through a meat grinder and combine with the bread, onions, eggs, horseradish, mustard, salt, and pepper. Place in a loaf pan. Bake uncovered in 350˚ oven for about an hour. Remove and place a sheet pan on top of the loaf and weigh down with a heavy weight. Let rest for about 30 minutes. Unmold and slice.
Of course, the next day, enjoy a cold meat loaf sandwich with homemade mayonnaise!
Where to find the best burger? At home, if you make it yourself. A delicious burger is made from freshly-ground meat, lightly packed, cooked on a high heat for a short period of time, and served on a homemade bun with homemade sauce. Yes, you can make this delicious treat. Once you taste your own burger, no other burger will come even close!
Black and Blue Hamburgers with Grilled Onions and Chipotle Aioli
for the buns:
Warm the milk and mix with the yeast, butter, and sugar. Add the salt and egg. Stir in a cup of the flour. Stir in the second cup of flour. Turn out onto a kneading mat and, adding more flour as necessary, knead until smooth. Place in an oiled bowl and let rise for an hour (or overnight in the refrigerator). Roll out to a thickness of one-inch and cut with a 3-inch biscuit cutter. Brush with an egg wash. Bake at 375 for 10-15 minutes.
for the onions:
Place the oil and onions in sauté pan, and cook until onions are reduced and caramelized, about 30 minutes. Add the pepper, sugar, vinegar, and sherry and cook for another 30 minutes. Season with salt and pepper.
For the chipotle aioli:
Whisk together the yolks, mustard, lemon, salt and pepper. Slowly drizzle in the oils, whisking constantly, until blended. Add the peppers to taste.
For the burgers:
Use a meat grinder to coarsely grind the beef, including the fat. Mix in Worcestershire sauce and black pepper to taste. Use a large disher (#8 or 10) to scoop the beef and form into about 12 patties. Make a dimple in the center of each patty (which prevents the burgers from ballooning). Heat a grill or cast iron skillet to high and cook the burgers, turning once, to desired doneness. After turning, place some blue cheese on top of each burger. Serve on a split bun with aioli and onions.
Learn how to make a fabulous burger with Kirk Warner on May 24.
“I made your recipe, but I changed it and now it’s better,” said a customer. How so?
“Well, I didn’t read the recipe, but just put all of the ingredients together in a pot and cooked it. So I didn’t realize until later that I was supposed to roll the nuts in sugar.”
Ah, the challenge of writing a recipe: no one ever reads the instructions. Just like no one ever reads the instructions for appliances. (Another customer called me on Sunday while she was trying to make pesto in her new food processor. I said, there is an instruction manual and a DVD. She laughed at the idea of actually reading the manual!)
The first rule of cooking is to read the recipe all the way through before starting, but no one does. So, here are two versions of honeyed nuts. In the first, the hot sticky nuts are rolled in sugar so they won’t stick together. In the second, the nuts are coated in melted honey and sugar. Try them both and see which you prefer!
Honey Roasted Nuts
Directions for version 1:
Spread out the almonds on an ungreased baking sheet. Place the sheet in the oven, and bake at 350 degrees until toasted, about 5-8 minutes. Toss once about halfway through cooking. Meanwhile, stir together the honey, water and oil in a medium saucepan, and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Stir in the roasted almonds and cook, stirring until all the liquid has been absorbed by the nuts. On a sheet pan, spread out the sugar, salt, and pepper. Roll the hot nuts in the seasoning and let cool.
Directions for version 2:
Spread out the almonds on an ungreased baking sheet. Place the sheet in the oven, and bake at 350 degrees until toasted, about 5-8 minutes. Toss once about halfway through cooking. Meanwhile, stir together the honey, water, oil, sugar, salt, and pepper in a medium saucepan, and bring to a gentle boil over medium heat. Stir in the roasted nuts and cook, stirring until all the liquid has been absorbed by the nuts.
French foods are back in style, finally! Our historically-French city now has several French restaurants: Brasserie and Chez Leon (their chefs teach cooking classes at Kitchen Conservatory), plus Atlas, Cafe Provencal, Franco, and Pomme. Julia Child would be so happy that we are rediscovering her favorite foods (only two spots are available for our Julia class starting on May 6).
Let’s revisit a classic and delicious French dish: quenelles, which is poached fish mousse, usually served in a sauce of lobster bisque. To see and taste this sublime concoction, join our favorite French chef, Jean-Pierre Auge, who will be teaching how to make quenelles in lobster sauce on April 17.
Fish Quenelles in Lobster Sauce
for the sauce:
Bring two inches of water to a boil and steam the lobster (after removing the rubber bands), covered, for 3 minutes. Remove and cool in ice water. Reserve the lobster water. Shell the lobster, saving the meat for another use, and smash the shells with a meat pounder. Put the shells back into the water and simmer the shells for 30 minutes. Strain through a chinois.
To roast the pepper, put directly on a burner or grill and cook on high until blackened. Put the pepper in a bowl and cover until cool. Remove the skin and seeds and dice the pulp. Saute the onion, celery, and pepper in butter until clear, about 10 minutes.
Season well with salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste. Add the garlic and flour, then sherry, bay leaf, and sprig of thyme. Add the carrots, tomatoes and enough lobster stock to cover. Bring to a boil and simmer for 20 minutes, until the carrots are soft.
Puree the sauce in a food processor or blender (after removing the thyme and bay leaf) and strain. Return to the stove and, if necessary, thin with more lobster stock. Add heavy cream to taste and correct the seasonings. If desired, garnish with a fresh herb, such as tarragon.
For the fish:
In a food processor, puree the fish. Add the whites and cream in a stream and season with salt, white pepper, and cayenne. In a wide saute pan, heat the stock to just under the boiling point. Form the fish into oval scoops and poach in seasoned fish stock, turning once, about 5 minutes. Remove with a slotted spoon and serve with sauce.
Say what? Banh xeo! These irresistable Vietnamese crepes, pronounced bunn SAY-oh, are a crispy thin pancake filled with flavor. Although no one in the cooking class had ever heard of them, banh xeo was the favorite recipe in our recent crepe class. This crepe is made without the traditional ingredients of eggs, milk, or flour, but tastes delicious, especially with stuffed with shrimp and dipped into a spicy lime sauce.
Vietnamese Banh Xeo Crepes with Shrimp
For the crepe batter:
¼ cup dried, peeled yellow split mung beans
1 cup coconut milk
3 tablespoons water
1 cup rice flour
1 teaspoon sugar
¼ teaspoon turmeric
¼ teaspoon salt
Place the mung beans in a bowl and cover with water and let sit for at least 30 minutes. Drain and rinse.
Place the beans in a food processor and puree with the coconut milk. (Mixture will look curdled.) Add the rice flour, sugar, turmeric, and salt and puree. Thin with water; the batter should be the consistency of heavy cream.
For the filling:
1/2 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined, and halved lengthwise
4 green onions, thinly sliced
1 cup bean sprouts
Chopped fresh cilantro or mint leaves for garnish
Leaf lettuce leaves for wrapping the crepe
Lime wedges for garnish
In a crepe pan, heat a spot of vegetable oil on medium heat. Pour in ¼ cup of the batter and swirl the pan to coat the bottom as thinly as possible. Top the batter with shrimp, bean sprouts, green onions, cilantro. Cook until the crepe browns and pulls away from the sides and is crisp on the bottom. Fold in half and serve with lettuce wraps, dipping sauce, and limes.
For the dipping sauce:
¼ cup fish sauce
¼ cup lime juice
1 garlic clove, minced
1 Thai chile pepper, minced
2 tablespoons sugar
¼ cup water
Mix together all of the ingredients.
“I was pleased to sample the bouillabaisse last night when I was at a cake decorating class– I would love the recipe if at all possible. It was simply delicious!!!!”
Chef-instructor Katy Colson taught an international soup class that included Vietnamese bouillabaisse. Traditionally, bouillabaisse is a French fish soup flavored with saffron, tomato, parsley, and garnished with a spicy mayonaisse called rouille. When the French ruled Vietnam, many French foods were incorporated into the local cuisine — such as baguette sandwiches and crepes. This seafood soup is flavored with the Vietnamese seasonings of fish sauce, chile paste, cilantro, and lime juice.
Katy is responsible for two of our favorite recipes: polenta with Gorgonzola cheese, spinach, and mushrooms from “Tuscany for Two” (the next open class is May 29) and the chicken enchiladas with tomatillo salsa in chile gravy from “Margarita Madness” (the next class is March 21). Don’t miss these upcoming classes taught by Katy Colson:
Vietnamese Bouillabaisse
In a wide soup pot, heat the oil. Add the leeks, shallots, and celery and cook for 5 minutes, stirred occasionally. Add the garlic and chile paste and cook for a minute. Add the tomatoes, tomato paste, fish sauce, and maple syrup and cook for a minute. Add the white wine and cook for several minutes to reduce. Add the saffron, oregano, and thyme. Add the stock and potatoes and bring to a boil, then simmer for 20 minutes.
Add the salmon, scallops, shrimp, and mussels. Cook until the mussels open about 4 minutes. Stir in the lime juice and cilantro and serve with rouille.
for the rouille:
In a sauce pan filled with salted water, cook the potato until tender. Drain and mash. Roasted the pepper until blackened, cover and steam until cool, then peel and chop. In a food processor, puree the pepper with the egg yolks, garlic, chile paste, and salt until smooth. Add the potato. With the machine running, add the oil.
Crepes are sunshine: round, yellow, and hot. On a dreary February day, think of the sun and eat crepes! My first taste of a crepe au Grand Marnier was taught to me by an eight-year-old French boy, who declared them to be his favorite! Crepes are street food in Paris and the kiosks always have a bottle of Grand Marnier on hand to make this delicious concoction.
Crepe pans are small (about 7-9 inches in diameter) with very low sides so that you can easily turn over the crepes. French crepe pans are made of carbon steel, which (after seasoning with oil like cast iron) are naturally nonstick. A well-seasoned pan needs no extra oil for cooking. To clean, simply wipe out the pan.
To make a thin crepe, pour a quarter-cup of batter in the pan and swirl immediately to coat the bottom of the pan. Pour out any extra batter. Cook until golden brown, turn over, and then briefly cook the other side.
Crepes au Grand Mariner
for the crepe batter:
Mix together all of the ingredients. The batter should be the consistency of heavy cream (if not, add a little more flour or a little more milk). Let the batter rest for at least an hour (and up to overnight). In a medium-hot crepe pan, drop 3-4 tablespoons of batter and swirl the skillet to coat. When browned, turn the crepe over to the other side and cook for another minute. Cool.
For the sauce:
Melt a tablespoon of butter and add a tablespoon of sugar. Add a crepe, fold in half and then fold again. Pour in 2 tablespoons of Grand Marnier, tilt the pan to light on a gas stove, and shake the pan until the flames die down. Serve immediately.
Mardi Gras is a great excuse to indulge in favorite New Orleans dishes. Load up on fresh oysters and prepare a sumptuous dish, Oysters Rockefeller, which was named after the richest man because the dish is so rich. The fresh oysters in the shell are twice sauced: spinach-pernod and creamy cheese sauces.
The best knives for opening oysters are the sharp and stainless tools made by Rosle. Oysters should be alive when you open them and the insides plump and moist, not dry. Oysters are best eaten as soon as they are opened. Make the sauces, then open the oysters, sauce them, and bake them.
Oysters Rockefeller
For the spinach sauce:
Melt the butter, add the flour, and stir the roux over medium heat until lightly browned. Add the pernod, stock, garlic, salt, pepper, and Worcestershire, and bring to a boil. Simmer for a few minutes, then fold in the spinach and cook until wilted. Cool.
For the cheese sauce:
Melt the butter and add the flour to combine. Do not brown. Add the milk and cream and seasonings. Stir over medium heat until thickened, about 5 minutes. Add the cheese and let cool.
To assemble:
Place a spoonful of the spinach sauce on the bottom of an oyster shell, then top with a raw oyster, then top with a spoonful of the cheese sauce. Sprinkle with a few breadcrumbs. Broil for a few minutes until browned and bubbly and serve hot.
Love oysters? Join Chef Jack MacMurray of Sage on March 31 for his best deep-fried oysters.
The “Let’s Eat” section of the St. Louis Post-Dispatch featured an article by Shirley Corriher about pound cake, which drew a lot of attention.
She calls for baking the cake in a pullman bread pan, because the right-angle sides (most bread pans have slanted sides) produce a pretty dessert when the slices are cut on the diagonal. The pullman bread pan is traditionally used for making sandwich bread with a tight crumb structure. The pan features a lid (which she does not use for the cake recipe) which forces a yeast bread to fill in the corners so that each slice is perfectly square. Yes, you can bake pound cake without a pullman pan, but I do love the heavy-weight and stick-resistant carbon steel construction of this pan.
The recipe gets its wonderful flavor from vanilla bean paste. I have replaced vanilla extract with vanilla bean paste in all of my recipes because the intense flavor of the paste is so delicious. The paste has ground vanilla beans for a more potent extract.
Corriher’s other suggestions for making pound cake are:
Here is my version of pound cake. Double the recipe to bake in a 10-12 cup bundt cake pan.
Pound Cake
Mix together the butter and sugar in a food processor until creamy and well-blended. Add the eggs and vanilla and blend well. Mix together the salt and flour. Fold into the butter mixture. Pour into a greased loaf pan and bake at 325 degrees until set in the middle, about 60-70 minutes. Serve with my favorite chocolate sauce.
Want to see how to bake a pound cake? Join us for cooking class on February 19 or April 14 for delicious menus that include homemade pound cake.
Simple, hearty foods can be turned into gourmet treats with one simple addition: lobster. Fold in some lobster meat to such comfort-food favorites as macaroni-and-cheese or mashed potatoes or risotto or pot pie and everyone wants to eat!
An elderly customer told me yesterday, “I bought a live lobster and while I was driving home, it broke out of the paper box and started crawling around the car. Luckily, I was close to home and so I stuck the knife into it. Killing the lobster is my favorite part!” Most lobster-eaters do not feel that way, but purchasing live and frisky lobsters mean that the lobsters are fresh.
Lobsters are sold alive because toxins develop if they die and are not cooked. To use lobster meat in a dish, do not overcook (which toughens the meat) but steam the lobster for about 3 minutes. The shells will be red, but the meat still raw. Shell the meat. I don’t use traditional lobster tools, but crack the shells with a meat pounder. Be sure to remove the vein in the lobster tail. The sweetest meat is the knuckle, which is best removed with Joyce Chen scissors. Each lobster leg has one bite of meat; to remove, roll each leg under a rolling pin and the one bite will pop out.
Smaller lobsters have more tender meat; buy 1-pound or 1 1/2-pound lobsters for the best taste.
Lobster Twice-Baked Potatoes
Bring an inch of water in a stock pot to a boil. Add the lobster, cover, and steam for 3 minutes. Remove and place in ice water. Shell the meat, cut in pieces, and reserve.
Bake the potatoes at 400 degrees for an hour. Cut off the top 1/4-inch piece. Scoop out the insides, leaving a 1/4-inch shell of potato. Mix the potato insides with cheese, butter, tarragon, chives, salt, and pepper. Fold in the lobster meat, stuff back into the potatoes and bake until hot, about 10 minutes.
Can’t get enough lobster? Join us for these cooking classes: